A Memorable Long Weekend in Oaxaca City: Dining, Lodging, and Shopping

Has a place ever resonated with you so much that the experience changes you? Oaxaca City did just that for me. Its vibrant atmosphere, rich cultural layers, and stunning art and food made it one of the most enchanting destinations I’ve explored. From picturesque courtyards to the sunlit zocalo, every corner of Oaxaca City feels alive. The bright textiles and 17th-century architecture are matched only by the hospitality of its residents, eager to share their history and culinary heritage.

During my recent visit, I indulged in more molé and fresh tortillas than I could have imagined, walked countless miles (everything is within walking distance), enjoyed delightful coffee and spicy mezcal at every meal, and explored shop after shop, all while soaking in Oaxaca’s artistic essence. Each turn revealed a new wonder, and I’m already plotting my return to delve deeper into this magical city. Many US and European expats I spoke with shared a similar sentiment, describing how Oaxaca resonates with their artistic souls. Be warned: this travel guide will inspire you to book a long weekend, but you’ll likely want to return.

Essential Information about Oaxaca City

Oaxaca City is one of the few cities recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, celebrated for its beauty, historical significance, and rich arts and crafts culture.

Best Time to Visit Oaxaca

There's truly no wrong time to visit Oaxaca City. Its pleasant climate year-round makes it an inviting destination at any time, and it’s considered one of the safest areas in Mexico.

Locating Oaxaca City

Oaxaca (pronounced waa·haa·kuh) refers both to the state (Oaxaca de Juarez) in southern Mexico and its capital. Most attractions are centrally located, so locals often refer to this area as “Centro.” When arriving at the airport, be sure to withdraw some pesos for taxis and cash-only eateries.

Getting Around

Centro is mostly walkable, eliminating the need for a car. While there are fantastic day trips nearby, taxis, buses, and private guides are available, which I’ll detail in my Oaxaca City guide below.

Accommodations: Top Hotels in Oaxaca

Escondido Oaxaca. This hotel, part of the Grupo Habita collection, was our ideal base. Nestled in Centro, it artfully merges history with modern design. Whether you stay here or not, don’t miss the sunset view from the lush rooftop terrace while sipping a mezcal margarita.

Casa Antonieta. Our friends stayed at Casa Antonieta, and it became our second home. We enjoyed cocktails on the terrace and snacks at the lovely Muss Café. This historic building, dating back to 1529, exudes character that newer constructions lack, yet its well-designed rooms offer modern comfort.

Here’s how to enjoy a long weekend in Oaxaca City...

Day 1: Discover the City and Sip on Mezcal

Morning

Start your day at Boulenc for breakfast (you’ll probably return multiple times). Get in line for pastries and a cold brew latte, or sit down for a meal—don’t miss the breakfast sandwich on a house-made English muffin. Share a sugar-topped Nudo pastry for dessert.

After breakfast, explore Suculenta, a charming grocery store. Stock up on artisanal Oaxacan chocolate and salsa macha to take home.

To truly experience Oaxaca City, dedicate several hours to wandering. Begin at the zocalo near the stunning Santo Domingo church, then visit textile and ceramics shops that catch your eye. Some favorites include Huizache for traditional embroidered clothing, Los Baúles de Juana Cata for lovely table linens, and Silvia Suarez for fashionable hats and dresses. I wish Marchanta had a location in the States—it's filled with stunning clothes and bags from South American designers.

When your feet need a rest, grab a coffee at Onno Loncheria, known for its hip ambiance and solid coffee and snacks.

Midday

Make your way to Las Quince Letras for lunch. Recommended by our local guide, Lalo, this spot serves up delicious handmade corn tortillas and three varieties of molé. Each bite was fresh and satisfying—I wished I could try everything on the menu.

Now, it’s time to wander again. Some of our best moments came from unplanned strolls through Centro, where we popped into shops, people-watched, and admired beautiful buildings draped in vines. Embrace getting a little lost.

Evening

As the birthplace of mezcal, Oaxaca boasts an impressive tasting experience at Mezcaloteca. Reserve a spot in this unique “library” housing over 100 types of mezcal, where Rodrigo will guide your group through an hour-long tasting and history session. Be sure to pick up a bottle for home.

Dine at Criollo, a visually stunning restaurant led by Chef Enrique Olvera (of Pujol in Mexico City). This upscale dining experience is a must for first-time visitors. Enter through a historic mansion into an expansive courtyard adorned with minimalist furniture and vibrant flowers. The six-course menu beautifully showcases Oaxacan tradition. Prepare for a feast.

Day 2: Immerse Yourself in Monte Albán's History

Morning

Start your day at Café Muss with an oat milk latte, green juice, and Shakshuka to fuel up for the day ahead.

Then, head to Monte Albán. While you can take a taxi to this ancient Zapotec city, hiring a local guide enriches the experience by sharing the fascinating history behind the site, founded around 500 B.C. Arrive early to avoid the heat, as Monte Albán opens at 8 am. (Email info@trendiesfind.com for our guide’s contact info if you're planning a trip!)

Midday

For lunch, enjoy a satisfying meal at Hierbe Dulce, a vegan restaurant that delights all diners. We enjoyed tostadas topped with pickled vegetables, inventive guacamole, refreshing iced horchatas, and mushroom tacos.

Evening

Be sure to leave room for dessert, as Nieves vendors will fill the streets by 5 pm. You must try this artisanal hand-churned ice cream, which is more like sorbet, with flavors such as mango, hibiscus, and cactus fruit.

If you’re visiting on a Saturday, you might catch an impromptu wedding parade—one of the highlights of our trip. Join in the fun and dance along!

Casa Oaxaca ranks among the best dining spots in the city. With its beautiful setting and exceptional cuisine, it draws both locals and tourists. Request a terrace seat for stunning views of the church and prepare for a feast of Oaxacan seafood, molés, grilled meats, and a coconut flan that will leave you dreaming.

Day 3: Discover Artisans and Dine in Oaxaca

Morning

Kick off your day with a pastry (the Nudo from Boulenc is a must-try). Then, be sure to visit Templo de Santo Domingo, an iconic church you’ve likely passed multiple times. Entrance is free, and you can reserve a spot for guided tours of the Botanic Gardens, which I highly recommend. Tours in English are available a few times a week.

Oaxaca City is filled with pottery, textile, and home shops that showcase a blend of traditional folk art and modern design. My go-to for handmade ceramics is Colectivo 1050°. Though small, it’s brimming with handcrafted pieces from local artisans, perfectly representing this fusion of history and contemporary creativity.

Midday

For lunch, visit a market like Mercado 20 de Noviembre. Enjoy carne asada cooked before your eyes, accompanied by peppers, onions, and handmade tortillas.

Though your weekend is winding down, don’t miss the chance to visit Teotitlán del Valle, a village that embodies Oaxaca's artisan craft scene. Many hotels and travel agencies can connect you with guides, and our incredible guide Angie led us to family-run workshops where we witnessed artisans weaving vibrant rugs, hand-dyeing wool with natural materials, and crafting stunning beeswax candles. Many artists bring a contemporary twist to traditional Zapotec designs—this is a must-see experience while in Oaxaca.

Evening

It’s time to dress up and celebrate an unforgettable weekend in Oaxaca City. Reserve a table at Selva for artisanal cocktails featuring local ingredients. For your last night, indulge in a mezcal drink like the green Selva cocktail, described as a “rainforest in a glass.”

Words can’t capture my love for dinner at Levadura de Olla, easily my favorite meal of the trip. Everyone raved about the tomato salad, and they were absolutely right. Chef/owner Thalía Barrios Garcia has crafted a menu inspired by her hometown’s cuisine, blending freshness and smokiness with a focus on vegetables. We savored crisp white wine from Mexico and sweet potato-filled tamales while nearby cooks prepared fresh corn tortillas. This meal brought me immense joy—more than any other in recent memory.