When considering invasive weeds, a Michelin-star restaurant in Manhattan may not be the first thing that comes to mind. Yet, these weeds are gaining attention in the culinary world. The emergence of Copenhagen's Noma in the 2010s sparked a new appreciation for foraging ingredients that many dismiss as mere nuisances.
Tama Matsuoka Wong, a former finance attorney from New Jersey turned professional forager, notes that this change in perspective is on the rise. 'Chefs focused on quality ingredients are increasingly interested in edible weeds and wildflowers; the demand is outpacing supply,' she explains.
With many people leaning towards plant-based diets, Tama believes this trend is now ingrained in everyday kitchens. 'During the pandemic, we all yearned to connect with nature, prompting a shift in how younger generations view the land around them.'
'This cultural evolution made me rethink weeds,' says Tama. 'Food and plants are intertwined. It struck me when I realized we had an abundance of Japanese knotweed on our property, an invasive species.'
'My father, who is Japanese, welcomed friends from Japan. When I mentioned my struggle with this troublesome plant, they revealed it's considered a delicacy in Japan. That was a revelation; I didn't need to feel guilty about these weeds.'
Tama is a wild food forager, author, and gardener in New Jersey, supplying some of New York City's top restaurants with her extensive knowledge of wild produce, which enhances their culinary creativity.
Her Journey Begins
Tama's perspective evolved as she considered herself a struggling gardener. 'Every plant I nurtured seemed to perish,' she shares. After years in Hong Kong as a financial services lawyer, she sought to reconnect with nature.
She began observing the land, asking, 'What thrives here naturally without my intervention?'
Fueled by her passion for plants and food, she reached out to Eddy Leroux, executive chef at Restaurant Daniel in NYC, to learn about cooking with the edible plants around her. She introduced him to mint-scented anise hyssop and nettles, which he transformed into exquisite dishes.
This collaboration led to an ongoing experimental partnership where Tama would bring various plants weekly for the chefs. This innovative approach captured attention and quickly made her a sought-after supplier.
For over a decade, she's partnered with the Daniel Boulud group, along with other notable establishments like Ilis in Brooklyn, Korean restaurant Atomix, and Nordic-inspired Aquavit, both of which have earned two Michelin stars, in addition to the bartending group Sugar Monk.
Welcoming Weeds
In her upcoming book, Into the Weeds: How to Garden Like a Forager, releasing in March and available for pre-order on Amazon, Tama encourages a new approach to gardening that fosters harmony with the environment.
'My passion stems from common sense,' she asserts. 'I'm not a meticulous gardener. My approach is to do less and see what emerges. Stay curious, and you'll discover surprising things. People are often amazed that I have a meadow on my property that I never planted.'
Tama emphasizes that a backyard offers more than just aesthetics. 'It's a space for interaction, sensory enjoyment, and relaxation. The more you engage with it, the more joy it brings. Let go of the need for control.'
Building Foraging Confidence
For those new to foraging, starting can feel overwhelming. 'Begin with one familiar plant,' Tama suggests. 'Consider something like dandelions. Many have fig trees in New Jersey that produce little fruit, but the leaves are edible, so there's no need to be discouraged by a lack of figs.'
She advises that new foragers often want to eat plants raw, but found they taste much better and are easier to digest when cooked.
Designing a Wild Space
If letting weeds flourish or allowing a meadow to develop causes anxiety about aesthetics or neighborhood perceptions, Tama offers practical guidance.
'The key is to create an intentional look,' she says. 'We had a dead ash tree on our property. Instead of removing it, we left it as is. It's a refuge for insects and woodpeckers, and we even harvested oyster mushrooms from it. Some might see it as unattractive or neglected.'
'In Japan, wrapping a rope around a tree symbolizes respect. By doing so, it transforms the dead tree into something purposeful. Consider fencing off areas or labeling them to show intentionality, thereby elevating them beyond just a weedy spot. Enclose a wild patch to enhance its appeal.'
Where to Start Foraging
Best Foraging Spots
If you lack a sizable area to forage, get acquainted with neighbors, farmers, and local landowners. Many have areas overrun with invasive plants and might welcome your foraging efforts. Always seek permission before picking anything and avoid foraging in public parks.
Identifying Forageable Plants
To learn about and identify specific plants, consider visiting your local university extension or agricultural school. The iNaturalist app is a helpful tool for plant identification. Engaging with neighbors and local gardening clubs can also provide valuable insights, as many are eager to share their knowledge.
Tama's book introduction highlights the need to rethink our gardening practices and embrace our role as caretakers of the land, fostering curiosity and humility. By adjusting our perspectives, we can appreciate invasive plants and discover a new, delicious side to them.
