Slugging Skin Care: Unlocking the Secrets of This Trending Technique

Strange skin care trends come and go, but slugging is one that’s worth your attention. This technique involves applying a thick layer of an occlusive moisturizer at night to achieve a dewy glow by morning. While it may sound too good to be true, it’s important to approach it with some caution. Instead of relying solely on social media, I consulted professionals for insights.

Featured image from our interview with Sanetra Nere Longno by Michelle Nash.

Essential Insights About Slugging

According to Dr. Rosmy Barrios, MD, a medical advisor and Head of Anti-Aging, “Slugging refers to applying a thick occlusive layer as the final step in your skin care routine to retain moisture and minimize water loss.” This technique originated from K-beauty trends and gained popularity thanks to TikTok. The name comes from how Vaseline makes your skin appear shiny and slick, resembling a slug.

Another emerging trend, “skin flooding,” focuses on layering hydrating products to enhance moisture retention. This method typically includes hyaluronic acid, moisturizers, and occlusives. While slugging is primarily a nighttime practice, skin flooding can be performed both day and night, making it a related concept.

Slugging can be viewed as a variation of skin flooding.

What sets slugging apart is its endorsement by dermatologists. Its appeal lies in its simplicity. Petroleum jelly, a classic beauty staple, has been used for generations. While many might hesitate to apply such a thick substance, it could lead to beautifully glowing skin.

Slugging has gained traction due to its benefits for various skin types. Initially recommended for dry skin, its wound-healing properties also make it ideal for blemish-prone skin and provide anti-aging benefits for mature skin.

To further explore this technique, I consulted with board-certified dermatologists Dr. Rosmy Barrios and Dr. Michelle Henry.

Shanika Hillocks, slugging skincare products — *Image by Michelle Nash*

Defining Slugging

Dr. Henry elaborates, “Skin slugging involves using a thick petroleum-based product as the last step in your routine. This technique reduces transepidermal water loss, enabling better moisture retention in the skin.”

Effects of Slugging on Your Skin

Dr. Barrios highlights, “Maintaining a balance between skin cells and lipids is essential for your skin barrier. Think of lipids as the glue that holds the outer layer of your skin intact. A reduction in lipids can lead to water loss, compromising the barrier. An occlusive agent like Vaseline can help restore that balance.”

Moreover, slugging aids in strengthening your skin barrier and restoring a disrupted skin microbiome. By sealing in your skin care products, slugging enhances their effectiveness.

serum, slugging skincare products — *Image by Belathée Photography*

Benefits of Slugging

Waking up with soft, hydrated skin? Yes, please! Dr. Henry appreciates slugging as a method to lock in moisture and achieve a fresh glow by morning.

Dr. Barrios concurs, stating, “The primary advantage of slugging is that it delivers baby-soft and well-hydrated skin. It fortifies your lipid barrier, enhancing your skin’s protective capabilities while boosting the efficacy of your skin care products.”

Choosing the Right Slugging Products

Dr. Henry recommends petroleum-based products. “These ingredients are non-breathable and effectively lock in moisture. Options like Vaseline and Aquaphor are ideal.”

Dr. Barrios suggests looking for occlusive ingredients, such as petrolatum and lanolin. “A simple, unscented Vaseline is your best option, but you might also consider products containing glycerin and hyaluronic acid. Avoid fragrances, as they can irritate your skin.”

Who Should Refrain from Slugging?

Dr. Barrios cautions, “Slugging isn’t suitable for everyone. For those with acne-prone skin, it can trap dead skin cells, bacteria, and sebum, potentially worsening breakouts.”

Dr. Henry adds, “While occlusive products are generally non-comedogenic, they can still clog pores if your other skincare products are acne-triggering. If you have oily or acne-prone skin and want to try slugging, consider incorporating retinol or salicylic acid into your routine.”

Integrating Slugging into Your Routine

Make slugging the final step in your skin care routine. “Ensure your face is thoroughly cleansed before applying Vaseline, as dirt or bacteria can negatively impact your skin,” advises Dr. Barrios.

Because slugging locks in prior products, start with lighter formulations. Always choose non-comedogenic items and be cautious with actives. Since slugging doesn’t hydrate or moisturize on its own, it shouldn’t replace serums and creams. This is where skin flooding can be beneficial. Layering hydrating products overnight is especially effective when using a hyaluronic acid serum alongside an occlusive moisturizer.

When slugging, apply products in this order:

Cleanser with gentle exfoliating properties to remove dead skin cells and unclog pores.
Toner to prepare your skin and eliminate any final debris.
Hydrating serum, such as hyaluronic acid.
Any targeted serum for discoloration or anti-aging.
Lightweight moisturizer to provide hydration and nourishment.
Slugging products as the final layer of your routine.