This recipe for ajiaco is featured in an interview with Mariana Velásquez. Explore more recipes and the complete story!
According to chef Mariana Velásquez:
About two decades ago, Bogotá's mayor's office declared this soup a cultural treasure. It embodies the essence of our people, tracing its origins back to pre-Hispanic times when the first ajiaco was crafted using diverse roots and tubers, complemented by guascas—a distinctive aromatic green—and venison. While traditionally believed to stem from the Muisca tribe of central Colombia, historian Lácidez Moreno suggests that ajiaco also has African influences. Just like humanity itself.
For modern Colombians, particularly those in Bogotá, the quintessential ajiaco is a fulfilling dish that incorporates three types of potatoes, corn, chicken, guasca herbs, cream, avocado, and capers.
Each potato variety in ajiaco serves a specific role. The sabanera potato, which I swap for russet potatoes, melts into the broth, contributing to its creamy texture. Next, the pastusa potato adds flavor and texture, where I use large Yukon Golds as a substitute. Lastly, the Criolla potato provides a vibrant yellow hue and a touch of sweetness, which can be replaced with small gold creamer or yellow new potatoes.
Guasca is an herb, known as galisonga in New Zealand or gallant soldier in Ireland—my favorite of its many names. In the U.S., guasca can be found at farmers markets under the name potato weed. This fragrant herb gives ajiaco its unique flavor and is available dried online or in the spice aisles of select Colombian markets. But if guasca isn't accessible, don't let that stop you from trying this comforting dish.
Consider inviting a friend to help peel the potatoes; it speeds up the process and creates a wonderful opportunity for conversation while preparing lunch.
From the book COLOMBIANA by Mariana Velásquez. Copyright © 2021 by Mariana Velásquez. Published by Harper Wave, an imprint of HarperCollins Publishers. Reprinted by permission.
Preparation Time
20 minutes
Cooking Time
110 minutes
Recipe Categories
Ingredients
- 2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and sliced into ¼-inch rounds
- 1 pound Criolla potatoes or gold creamer potatoes, peeled and cut into ¼-inch rounds
- 1½ pounds large Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into ¼-inch rounds
- 3 pounds bone-in chicken breasts, skin removed
- 2 teaspoons kosher salt, to taste
- Freshly ground black pepper
- 4 large scallions, trimmed
- 3 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
- 3 stems of cilantro, whole
- 5 ears of corn, husked and cut into 3 to 4 pieces
- 10 grams dried guasca
- 1½ cups heavy cream
- 1 cup large capers
- 3 to 4 ripe avocados, cut into wedges right before serving
Instructions
- In a large soup pot, combine russet, Criolla, and Yukon Gold potatoes, chicken breasts, salt, pepper, scallions, garlic, and cilantro. Cover with cold water, bring to a simmer over high heat, skimming off any foam. Simmer until chicken is thoroughly cooked but juicy, about 45 minutes. Remove chicken breasts, scallions, and cilantro; let chicken cool and discard the others.
- Stir the soup and continue cooking until potatoes begin to dissolve, creating a thick and creamy texture with some potato chunks remaining, about 45 to 50 minutes. Turn off the heat and keep covered until serving.
- In a medium pot, bring salted water to a boil, add corn pieces, and boil again. Cover, turn off the heat, and let sit for 10 minutes. Remove corn and set aside.
- Once chicken is cool enough, shred it into large pieces and place on a serving platter. Cover with foil to keep warm.
- About 10 minutes before serving ajiaco, add guasca. Heat over medium, stirring frequently to prevent sticking.
- Serve in bowls with chicken, heavy cream, capers, and avocado on the side.
